Many of us know the frustration and anger that comes when you get a fresh pimple on your face and right after its gone, you notice it left something behind.. a dark spot! Discoloration in skin shows itself in different ways, especially if you are a POC. Due to the increased production of melanin we are naturally blessed with, when we experience inflammation the likelihood of us experiencing post inflammatory hyperpigmentation is almost guaranteed.

In simple terms, PIH is the discoloration left behind after you experience injury and inflammation to the skin. This discoloration is due to an increased amount of melanin produced by our melanocytes, and can be triggered by something as small as an insect bite. Fading these dark marks is a constant battle and one very important step many people are missing in their pigment treating routine, is SPF.

Daily use of sun protection can reduce the appearance of discoloration in the skin as well as protect us from worsening already existing hyperpigmentation! SPF stands for sun protection factor, and the number beside it indicates how long you can wear it before the sun will start to tan or burn your skin. There are two types of UV rays that our skin need protection from

UVA

UVA stands for Ultraviolet Aging, these rays are associated with aging the skin and can cause some indirect damage to cells which can be linked to long terms damage such as wrinkles. These rays also have longer wavelengths but the shortest amount of energy.

UVB

UVB stand for Ultraviolet Burning, these rays have longer wavelengths and slightly more energy than UVA. They are also directly responsible for the tanning or darkening of the skin when exposed to sunlight. UVB rays can damage DNA in cells by causing sunburns, and they are also believed to cause skin cancer. In darker skin, these rays cause melanocytes to produce more melanin than normal and results in darkening skin and further darkening already existing spots.

There are two different types of sunscreens: Physical and Chemical

Physical Sunscreen

Physical spf acts as a shield to block or reflect the suns rays off of the skin. This method is not 100% effective of course, naturally some of the rays will be able to penetrate through. This is also why proper application and reapplication practices are important! Physical sunscreens contain either Zinc or Titanium Dioxide (sometimes both) and are more occlusive, meaning they help prevent water loss by helping form a physical barrier around the skin. Physical sunscreen isn’t the best option for acne prone skin due to its occlusive nature and ability to block or congest pores! It is however the better option for those specifically needing protection while attempting to treat discoloration.

Zinc and Titanium Dioxide are very white compounds that are insoluble in water, because of this and such heavy formulations it can end up leaving behind a white cast on skin. For POC, especially those with darker skin tones this can be very frustrating due to lack of assessable sun protection products that we are comfortably able to use. The two compounds can be broken down into nano particles to try and offset the appearance of the white cast however, this also makes the product less effective as non nano particles are able to reflect rays better than nano particles.

Chemical Sunscreen

Chemical spf works by absorbing the suns rays into the skin and converting it into thermal energy which is then released from the skin by way of heat. Ingredients often seen in chemical sunscreen are

• Avobenzone

• Oxybenzone

• Octinoxate

• Ecamsule

Chemical spf is found to be better suited for acne prone skin as it is lighter in formulation and absorbs more quickly into the skin. However this isn’t the case for those dealing with hyperpigmentation such as Melasma or rosacea. Because of the thermal heat the act of absorbing the suns rays can often cause redness and irritation. Avobenzone is the most common ingredient in active chemical sunscreens and research does show that for some this ingredient can be an irritant due to it having to be combined with other stabilizing factors in order to be fully affective, so sensitive skin types will want to be aware of this as well when searching for the best option.

Application is Key!

The suggested best practice is to apply your sunscreen at least 30 minutes before direct sun exposure and reapplying at least every 2 hours. When buying broad spectrum spf you want to go with a higher number if you tend to burn more quickly or know you will be exposed to direct sunlight for longer lengths of time, reapplication is still necessary every 2 hours to get the full protection factor.

When applying SPF to your face its important to remember to apply it liberally, that pea sized amount will not cut it. Using the “ 2 finger rule” of applying 2 fingers worth of spf to your face and 1 shot glass worth for the body give the adequate amount of protection needed. This will hold especially true for those using active ingredients in their skincare routines and those attempting to treat discoloration.

“So what are my options?”

Heres a list of my personal favorite physical and chemical sunscreens, check them out!

Chemical SPF recommendations:

• Black Girl Sunscreen

• Bolden SPF 30 Brightening Moisturizer

• Neutrogena Hydro Boost Sunscreen Lotion

• Paulas Choice Youth-Extending Daily Hydration Fluid

• Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen

• Purito Green Level SPF

Physical SPF Recommendations:

• Cerave AM Moisturizing Lotion

• Cerave Hydrating Sunscreen

• Eleven by Venus Williams

• Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral SPF

• Elta MD Skincare Broad-Spectrum SPF

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