2 Common Pigmentation Issues for POC
If you are a Black or brown person with skin, its safe to say that you have probably dealt with pigmentation issues. Hyper pigmentation is a common, usually harmless condition in which patches of skin are darker than the surrounding skin. It occurs when special cells in the skin make too much of the pigment called melanin. Hyperpigmentation may appear as freckles, age spots, or larger areas of darkened skin. Hyperpigmentation may be caused by injury or inflammation of the skin, sun damage, abnormal skin growths, hormone changes, pregnancy, or other medical conditions.
In my personal experience with clients I've noticed 2 types of pigmentation being major concern for both my male and female clients. Always remember, identifying the characteristics of any skin issue will help you better choose products or professional services to treat them. Take a look at the definitions, causes and possible treatments for Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation and Melasma below!
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Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a condition that occurs after a skin injury or inflammation. This condition causes the skin surrounding and at the site of injury or inflammation to produce larger amounts of melanin, which can lead to darker skin color. PIH is likely to be seen in the skin after a breakout, and can be made worse by picking at active lesions on the skins surface. For many POC even the smallest bit of inflammation in the skin can leave behind PIH. The most minimal dark spots can take up to 6-8 months to fade, this is also heightened when combined with an improper skincare regime.
Skin problems that often result in PIH include acne, burns, eczema (atopic dermatitis), allergic reactions, infection, insect bites, lichen planus, pseudofolliculitis barbae, and psoriasis. PIH can be epidermal (top layer of skin), dermal (deeper layer of skin) or mixed.
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation can take months to years to fully clear. For effective long-term treatment of PIH, it is essential to treat the underlying skin problem that is leading to the discoloration. Ingredients such as Glycolic acid, Azeliac acid, Koijic acid as well as professional treatments such as microdermabrasion and light chemical peels can all be possible treatments for PIH.
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Melasma
Melasma is a pigmentary disorder of the skin which appears as brown patches on the face of adults. Both sides of the face, especially the cheeks, bridge of nose, forehead, and the upper lip. Melasma most commonly affects skin of color and 90% of those effected are women. The direct cause of melasma is unknown however, it can be hereditary. Changes is hormones often contribute to the appearance of melasma. For example “pregnancy mask” is a condition seen in expecting mothers due to fluctuations in hormones.
Sun and light exposure also play a part in the appearance of melasma as well as being a contributing factor in how long the process of treatment may take. Small amounts of light exposure, including those that are indirect definitely play a part in darkening already present melasma so proper sun protection application is key part of any treatment and prevention plan.
Hydroquinone is often considered the most effective of all the depigmenting agents but should only be used with the help of a skincare professional who can determine if it is a safe treatment for your specific skin concerns. Combination creams containing tretinoin, steroids, and glycolic acid along with hydroquinone enhance its depigmenting effect. Azelaic acid and kogic acid are two other agents that have depigmenting effects and are effective for many patients.
References Sites:
https://skinofcolorsociety.org
https://www.usdermatologypartners.com
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