Chemical Exfoliants: AHAs and BHAs Explained

As you know, exfoliation is a key step in any skincare routine. Its has a multitude of benefits that help to not only preserve the youthful look and feel of skin but also the ability to transform skin suffering from things like dryness, pigmentation or breakouts! If you need a refresher on just what exfoliation is and how it works go read Exfoliation: What, Why and When real quick then come back.

When it comes to exfoliation, chemical exfoliants reign supreme (at least in my book!) as I feel they give the best and most effective results. Now for anyone wondering “but I thought chemicals were bad for your skin,” let me remind you that a chemical is defined as any substance consisting of matter or quite simply put.. EVERYTHING!! Everything is a chemical compound because all things are made of matter. Of these chemicals, Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids are the most common.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

AHA’s are water soluble and penetrate the corneum layer or outer layer of skin, loosening the bonds between skins cells. These bonds are loosened so that the excess of dead skin cells can be melted away to allow new cells to take their place. The strongest and most well known AHA is Glycolic Acid which is naturally derived from sugar cane. It also has the smallest molecular size of all the AHAs so its able to penetrate deeper into the skin making it perfect for gently yet effectively exfoliating away dead skin cells. Other AHAs include

  • Lactic Acid - Derived from milk

  • Tartaric Acid - Derived from grapes

  • Citric Acid - Derived from citrus fruit

  • Malic Acid - Derived from apples

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s)

BHA’s are more mild acids and are oil soluble, making it perfect for treating oily or acne prone skin types due to its ability to get deeper into pores and keep them clear of excess oil and dead skin cell build up. The most known BHA is a naturally occurring compound called Salicylic Acid. Salicylic acid has naturally antiseptic properties and can be found in

  • Sweet Birch

  • Willow Bark

  • Wintergreen

How to Use Them

Over the counter chemical exfoliants usually have a percentage anywhere between 2-15% giving it the ability to penetrate the top layer of skin cells. You can find chemical exfoliants in different forms such as cleansers, toners, scrubs, masks and moisturizers. With so many options its really up to you how you choose to incorporate a chemical exfoliant into your skincare routine. Remember to get specific when building your routine and work with ingredients such as acids in percentages that won’t irritate your skin, I suggest starting lower and working your way up if you are a beginner and not using your exfoliating products in your everyday routine.

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skincareTashona GibsonComment